400 B.C. These Ionians from Apolonia are really growing insolent. Not content to dominate the trade with the Danube plains to the north thanks to their alliance with the Ionian cities up the coast, Apolonia now wants a share of the lucrative copper trade with the Thracians, until now the exclusive province of Messembria. Their latest act of impertinence is the founding of a trading colony in Anhialo, a stone's throw away from Messembria. The Messembrians cannot sit still. After all, they are the lone Dorian city on the coast - the closest Dorian support can be found in Crimea!

Up until now there had been a subtle balance in the relations between the two cities, which sit on opposite sides of the bay: the northern trade to the Ionians, and the relations with the Thracian hinterland to the Dorians. But now this latest act of provocation cannot be left unpunished.

What is there to loose for Messembria? They are one of the most powerful city-states on the Black Sea coast, well-protected behind their heavy walls and their fortress. The Dorians' prestige following the Peloponnesian War is a further protection. The fact that Messembria's merchants are insanely rich and ready to support an army also plays in its favor. Their interests are deeply affected: leaving control of the Anhialo region to Apolonia is likely to hurt their trade as Ionians would control supply of the all-important Anhialo salt, which is destined to play an important role in commerce with Thrace.

The war soon began, and Anhialo quickly fell under the Messembrians' control. They ventured further south and, while they could not force the city walls at Apolonia, the famous temple of Apolo located on the island facing the city was entirely destroyed. Victorious, Messembria felt vindicated and its commerce protected. Its victory was however short lived. Apolonia called in their allies from Istria, another Ionian settlement close to the mouth of the Danube. Soon the allies' fleet was on its way to retake Anhialo and impose its power on Messembria.

Messembria may have lost the war, but its cunning leaders ensured the city-state's welfare until well after Apolonia had fallen into oblivion. The two cities were allies against the Macedonians in the 3rd century b.c. and again against the Romans 200 years later. Apolonia however paid a heavier tribute for its resistance to the Romans and was almost completely razed, while Messembria continued to thrive for a while more.

Nessebar Island

These days Messembria and Apolonia continue to be rivals, but they fight for tourists. Currently named Nessebar and Sozopol, both cities are among the most picturesque on the Black Sea coast, alongside Pomorie (the historical Anhialo). Nessebar is still pretty much the "town amid the sea" described by Herodotus, and its many churches, old houses and museums attest to the city's continued significance throughout history. Founded by the Dorians of Megara (who are also said to have founded Byzantium), the Nessebar colony has remained an important trade port for most of its history. The Greeks fortified the city, built temples, a gymnasium and a theater. Most of the impressive wall which can still be seen today on the western side of the island dates back to Byzantine times, but there are a few parts that have remained intact from Greek times (towards the northern tip of the island). It is reported that the thick defense wall which can still be seen today was started by the Messembrians at the time of their wars with Apolonia (Sozopol).

For better views of the site, please see our pictures and movies. Information on how to get there and on surrounding sights can be found in our short guide to Nessebar.

Sources and further reading:
- Jonathan Bousfield and Dan Richardson, The Rough Guide to Bulgaria
- Herodotus, The Histories
- Unesco's World Heritage Sites
- Nessebar Museum
- More books about Bulgaria


Next stop on the journey:

The three peaks city: Plovdiv in Roman times